If
you're a self-published author like me, getting print books is a
daunting task. Digital only books are tough to promote and sell.
Having a professional company print and bind books for you is
expensive, believe me, I looked into it. Prices range from about $6
to $15 dollars per book, ouch! So I searched online, got a lot of
help from www.diybookbinding.com, and after a lot of trial and error, I've refined my
book binding process to make legitimate paperback books from home for
only about $3 per book. I won't lie to you, it's not an easy
process, but I do it because I feel that the old ways are worth
keeping alive. Also I'll be damned if I'm gonna let my books be lost
to obscurity in some digital archive, or sold off to some
“independent publisher” who just wants to screw me over and cash
in on my stories.
Note
to all aspiring authors: None of what you want is impossible. With
today's resources, you DO NOT need a publisher, or an agent. So
don't give up. When there's a will, there's a way.
1.1 Extra Wide Margins |
Step
1: Sizing
First,
I take my manuscript and size the margins up to fit a 4 1/8 by 6 ¾
book, the traditional paperback size. Then I printed out one copy
and measured how thick the stack of paper was. This gave me the
measurement I needed for the width of the spine when doing my cover
design. Also I keep the text on Justified format instead of Left
Aligned. Most every professional paperback is in Justified format.
2.1 Folding the Covers |
2.2 Priming the Spine with Rubber Cement |
Step 2: The Cover
I
designed my cover on photoshop. I tried printing covers myself at first
but found that it was more cost effective to have a company do it for
me. I went through www.printforless.com , they're great! I had 200 covers
printed out with a special UV coating that gives it the glossy
professional paperback shine. This only costs about $1 per cover, a
pretty good deal. This is the only part of the process I contracted
out to another company. Then I fold the edges, and put a rubber
cement base down on the spine. This makes it so that the glue
doesn't warp your spine and make it look all bubbly.
3.1 Printing the Front Sides |
3.2 Printing |
3.3 Printing the Back Sides |
Step
3: Printing the Pages
I
bought a high volume all black and white Brother laser printer from
amazon.com and I love it. This was my most expensive up front cost
(about $300) but it was worth every penny. On a high volume toner
cartridge, which costs about $107, I can print out about 75 copies of
my 350 page book. First I print the front sides, all the odd
pages. Then I flip the pages over and print all the even sides on the
backs. Note: I print four pages for each sheet of paper: two pages
on each side. The front side is printed Left to Right for odd pages
only. Then for the back sides I change the printing format from Left
to Right, to Right to Left and print even pages only so that the
pages match up on both sides.
4.1 Cutting the Tops & Bottoms |
4.2 Trimmed Tops & Bottoms |
Step
4: Cutting
I
also bought a HFS heavy duty paper cutter from amazon.com for only
about $100. This baby will cut through an entire book no problem and
give you nice clean edges. First I cut 7/8 inch off the tops and
bottoms of the pages. Then I cut the pages in half, straight down
the middle. This leaves you with two stacks of pages that I have to
stack together by hand. It's tedious, but it does give me a chance
to make sure that all the pages are there and in order. After the
book is arranged in a stack, I cut the left and right sides. Note: I
usually cut a little more off the right side so that my readers don't
have to stretch the book open too hard just to see the words near the
spine.
4.3 Cutting Pages in Half |
4.4 Arranging the Stack |
4.5 Wide Stack |
4.6 Finished Stack |
5.1 Pages & Cover in Jig |
5.2 Gluing the Spine |
5.3 Let it Sit Flat |
Step 5: The Jig and the Glue
With
a ton of help from www.diybookbinding.com I built my own book binding jigs out of scrap
wood, gorilla glue, bolts, and wing nuts. A book-binding jig is
basically a wooden frame that holds your pages together and tightens
them down for the gluing process. I insert my stack of pages and the
front cover in the book-binding jig, and make sure they're flat and
straight. Then I use Elmer's Tacky Glue to glue down the cover to
the spine. Tacky glue is nice because it's cheap, you can get it at
any craft store, and it's flexible. Don't use anything like Gorilla
Glue for the spine because it gets brittle and cracks. Then I flip
the whole jig over and let the glue dry on a flat surface for about 6
hours. I usually take the books out and put them on the shelf for
another 18 hours after that just to make sure.
5.4 Let it Sit for 18 hours |
6.1 Final Trim |
Step
6: Final Trim
The
next day, I'll give the books a final trim on the right side, and a
light trim from the tops and bottoms and voila, a finished paperback.
That's
basically it. I make all my books from home. I wish I could tell
you the process was easier, but it saves me a ton of money. Instead
of having a company print out 5000 copies for $6 per copy, I can make
as many as I want for only $3 per copy. And if someone finds a typo,
I can fix it easily and all future books won't have it. Hopefully,
this didn't intimidate anyone into thinking that they couldn't do
this. It's kind of a complicated process, but keep in mind I knew
nothing about this stuff less than six months ago. Also I'm always
open to answer any questions through email about the process. Thanks
for reading and hopefully I can open up some options for
self-publishing authors who want more than just an ebook.
Cameron